Running thru an English Garden

The next day I awoke early and was ready to see more of Munich. As I have found, a morning run in a new city is the best way to take in a lot while burning off any restless energy so as soon as the sun came up I hit the streets.

I was headed to the English Garden and while that sounded cool, I had no idea what to expect. I ran past several historical sites, and found the path leading to the garden. And what a garden it was! With the morning mist still hovering on the lake and in the meadow, this place was straight ouf of a fairytale.

"You Have Beautiful Eyes"

In order to get the most authentic experiences in my travels, I always stick to menus that are true to what is typical in a region, and for me that meant venturing to a German Ratzskellar following drinks at the Hofbrau Haus. Ratzskellars are typically situated in basements or some subterranean set-up; and offer fresh and varied offerings each night; which usually involve potatoes of some sort. This place was exactly that.

I found a table in a cozy nook of the restaurant, and loved the glow of the wine bottle candles and the atmosphere the dim lighting created. I had purposefully sat on the opposite side of the room as a large group of older Italian men who were quite rambunctious as not to be bothered.

Tough luck. No sooner had I ordered than the group seemed to morph into my space, and the whole game of "translation" began as a VERY basic conversationin VERY broken English ensued.

This was not the idea of a quiet evening for one that I had envisioned, and I asked for my check and headed out. But not before one very pursuant man told me five times "che bella due ochi"... He was clearly on repeat, and I was clearly exasperated so out into the streets I went to get lost in the Munich crowds. City living is great for quick escapes, I just hope there are not too many more of these instances instore for this trip!

Oktoberfest

Finding "the fest" in Munich was easy as pie. It was happening everywhere in the city. I simply had to venture out of my hotel and the crowds sweep me along to the next beer house. From Paulaner to Augusteiner to the most sought after Hofbrau Haus; which was a bit more difficult to find. I had an address, and a map, and neither seemed to help me as I followed Liederhosen around in circles until BAM! there it was.

The crowd to get in was maddening, but somehow I slipped to the front and got in the door. I went where the stairs lead and found out what everyone was talking about... a beer hall, filled with lots of manly men drinking beer out of gargantuan mugs, an "oompah band", and the chanting that filled the room. How fun was this!

Now the art and the act of getting a beer. As I would soon learn in most German (and Austrian) spots and beer halls in particular there is not a "bar" that you would find in most American drinking establishments. You don't walk up to a bar order a beer and just stand around... instead you sit at a table and wait on the bar maid/man to bring it over to you (like you were at a restaurant) and then once you pay you can get up and mill about. And that's exactly what I did. Except I decided to venture out the to the 'biergarten' and found a stoop to sit on and watch the crowds. Rowdiness and revelry were in full effect, and I was the fly on the wall taking it all in.

A City full of Liederhosen

As the train rolled closer to Munich, I realized I had no idea what to expect once the train stopped. I had mapped out the city related to my hotel, I had a list of "must-sees" and "hope to sees" but not a list of "what I am going to see". As I stepped off the train, I would know soon enough!

Walking out of the station with my bags in tow, had me standing in the warm sunshine waiting for a taxi to get me to my hotel. The sky was brilliant blue, and it seemed that everyone was outside enjoying the 80 degree weather. Beers were in hand, and liederhosen was the garb of choice.

As I rode along in the taxi, taking in the city-scape of Munich the two words that came to mind were 'tidy" and 'systematic". Everything was so organized, nothing felt wasted, it was a simply laid-out city, with everything in its place. An element of tight perfection exuded from the buildings. Kind of like being in IKEA, and the trendy sense of organziation that comes from those walls. It felt very, well, very German from everything I had learned of the country.

My hotel on BaadkerStrasse was very much the same. A tightly organized room for one, with cupboard kitchen, junior full size bed, study area, and full bath. Yep, something straight from an IKEA catalog.

Bags in room, key left with the front desk, I was ready to get going on this Oktoberfest adventure. Here. we. go!

Munchen Bound!

Rarely, does your imagination prepare you for the reality of a situation. A situation is usually better or worse than you imagine, and rarely exactly as your mind would picture it. The train ride through the German Alps was spellbounding. Screw the bag of books, journals and a computer I had brought with me. The only thing to do on this train was to watch the world pass by...From fields of green, to snow-capped mountains, to quaint Bavarian villages, to mountain cliffs that seemed to stop in mid-climb.

Rail was definitely the way to go on this journey. And I was just a traveler on this train letting my eyes soak up the view, my mind in motion contemplating my place in the world, and my heart full with love for the beautiful world we live in and thankful for this time to be lost in it.

Boungiorno!

I had chosen to take the first train from Milan to Munich, with a transfer in Verona, on this early Saturday morning. The train left at 6:55AM, which had me up at 5:30AM to shower and re-pack everything for my next leg of the journey.

Oh, the thrill of an early-rising! On mornings when there is somewhere new to go, this is such an exuberant feeling that makes my heart flutter. And as me and my wheelie bag headed to the elevator I was full of a sneaky feeling of sneaking out into the city streets before the sun rose; and an adventurous feeling knowing I was going somewhere new.

A new day was before me. A new adventure to be had. And as the first strands of sunshine began to stretch their way into the sky, illuminating the darkness, it was a 'buongiorno great, big beautiful world' type of feeling. Let's just see how much fun we can have today!

Cafe Chatter

One of the things I love about traveling solo is the opportunity to sit down and hear myself think. And after seeing the duomo was no different. I had an evening in Milan to myself. I could go anywhere I wanted, and I chose a sidewalk cafe on a side street from my hotel. The weather was perfect to sit outside and watch people pass, and that is exactly what I did.

I thought about being in Europe on my own again. I thought about how much I love traveling and getting to be 'a fly on the wall' watching cultural lifestyles play out before me... from clothing worn, to physical interactions with people, to food and beverages ordered, to just life.

At some point before I die, I want to live on the European continent for 365 days or longer and be and live in a country that doesn't speak English and doesn't even want to. I want to be a part of something different, to truly expand my mind by seeing everything I do on a daily basis differently. For some reason that is high on my priority list.

But being back in Europe brings new ideas to mind. For the longest time I was set on a little town in Southern Spain, and it truly is an amazing city; but my heart grew or my eyes grew or something in me grew past that. Sometimes a different path or plan presents itself when you least expect it. And the idea of living in Spain had altered for me... almost like at some point in the past year I had fallen out of love with it. Strange how that is... falling out of love with a city just as you might with a person.

I guess it comes down to what you want. And to this topic of converation, is it to live in Sevilla or live in Europe? Is it to be in love? Or be in love with a specific person? How open do you want to be to where your dreams are granted? How open do you need to be? Because life changes. We are evolving at the same time we are revolving around the sun. Everyday brings new opportunities for the things we want in life, and if you are open to them you can have everything you want... as long as you understand your 'dream' may not be called the same as it was yesterday, it may not look the same, or it may be located a little further north or south on the map...But if you listen to your heart, you realize it might still be your dream... just updated, and made better for the person you are now.

Making it to Milan

For most people, Milan is synonomous with fashion. If its from Milan, Paris, New York or Tokyo its in fashion. And if its not, well its not. I enjoy fashion, but that was the last reason I got off the train once it stopped in Milan.

Since I started traveling frequently in Europe, I have become a 'cathedral chaser'. I am drawn to the big, old, gothic (or otherwise) cathedrals built in the early 1000's, if not before. I never tire of looking at them, walking through them, and staring out the stained glass of these impressive buildings. And if there is a bell tower? Well, see you at the top! Milan is the home of the 2nd most famous cathedral in Italy, behind St. Peter's of course, and I had to visit it and see it with my own eyes. So here I was in Milan to do just that.

I don't know that there has been a more simple 'train-to-hotel' experience in my life. Off the train, I got a map, found the main plaza, walked 150 meters north, and there I was, and in 20 more minutes I was all sorted and headed to the subway to find the Duomo.

Now, for those of you who are not fans of traveling underground, let me tell you, that if seeking the Duomo in Milan, YOU MUST TAKE THE SUBWAY. Here's why:

When you exit the stairs, the cathedral is peering over the edge of the staircase and in my mind it seemed like "the stairway to heaven"... right here in Milan!

Truly this was a sight to see, and worth the hassle of an extra stop on the train.

First Classe!

When this trip was planned, I knew I was traveling by train mostly, but the details of how to do it were a bit lost on me. I had my Eurail pass, good for 5 countries I had selected, and I knew I had to 'activate' it somewhere at Rome's central station, but that was about it. I expected it to be a long and arduous process, but somehow in 5 minutes a man had activated/stamped my pass, pointed me to the ticket kiosk and I had a first class ticket to Milan.

I hugged my friends good-bye, kissed both cheeks for good luck, and boarded my train in the first class cabin. Nothing too exciting, just plenty of empty seats and the one's that were taken were filled with men in Italian business suits. I was definitely the only soul-searcher in this car.

Sitting back and relaxing, and watching the Tuscan country side pass by in my window was truly a moment I will never forget. The medieval towns tucked away on the hillside, the expansions of green grass between each town, the small town Italian life dashing past as the train rolled forward. I think traveling is one of the greatest gifts you can offer your soul, and I was so thankful that this is the gift I could offer mine today.

About this time, the beverage cart starts rolling down the aisle, and I asked for vino bianchi. "Oh, no, miss... no vino bianchi, solo presecco"... Really? Did that even need to be a question? Would I be okay drinking champagne instead of white wine? YES PLEASE! I was loving these Italians and their upgrades. And we were only on day 2 of our travels.

Bounogiorno!

The next morning, after a quick run by the Tiber, we all dressed and headed out to the Plaza for breakfast and a bit of shopping before loading up in the taxi and heading back to the train station.

We took our time getting to the plaza, and stopped for many 'photo ops' along the way.

It was another beautiful day in Rome, and after such a lovely day yesterday, I think we all wished we could be Roman for one more day. But not this time.

We had our coffees, and each took time to look around the market for things we might need on the next leg of our journeys. For me, it was fruit and cheese and all the fixing for a picnic in the park or a snack on the way to Milan. Even in Europe, my love of grocery shopping comes out in full force! And in major citites, its simply the best!

And then it was time to say Ciao! Ciao! as we headed in our separate ways. What a wonderful time to spend with such a special friend. From Cartersville to Jacksonville, From New York to Rome... well, I guess it never matters where you are, good friends make any place feel like home, and every adventure magical.

Its Never Too Late to Say Thank You.

In the Spring of 2009, when I first visited Italy's capital, my experience was not the best. While picking up t-shirts for my step-cousin at Hard Rock (she's a collector), my pocket got picked and my blackberry is now the receiver of an Italian phone number. Traveling solo without a phone is a bit scary, especially when you know no one and don't speak the language.

In a distraught state of mind that April day two years ago, I had wandered down Via Venezia and straight into Campo dei Fiori, and plunked myself down at a table outside and emptied the contents of my purse to learn what my heart already knew: my phone was gone.

Somehow, my the grace of the travel gods, I had sat myself down at a cafe called 'Magnolia' with an owner named 'Maj'. Maj was from Boston (thank god!) and just so happened to be eating at the table next to the table where this animated search was happening. Seeing the look of despair on my face, he smiled kindly and said, "Lost something?" The fact that he was speaking English made me feel so hopeful, and I told him my pity story.

He told me not to worry, and within five minutes, I was seated at the cafe with his computer emailing my office to let them know about my phone, contacting friends I was meeting up with later as well as later that week in Spain, and sorting out the rest of the details that go with losing a phone. Maj also brought me a salad as it was 3pm and a glass of wine, and told me I could stay as long as I wanted just to give the computer to the hostess when I was done.

I am sure I thanked him then, probably a 100 times before he left, but everyone says thank you at the heart of the issue; and his kindness had made a bad situation kind of special (while sitting at the cafe I met an adorable girl Morgan from SF with two French bulldogs and she and I pal-ed around the rest of the afternoon doing things an Italian does.). So when I was booking our room for Rome this time around, I hoped to stay close enough that I could slip out and relocate Magnolia and say a proper thank you to its owner.

After Giolitti, all three of us wandered into CdF and we did find Maj. I was surprised he remembered me, and I think he was surprised I came back to say thank you. But I guess that's just how I am, I never forget who I owe and what I owe, even if its just a few words. It truly is never too late to say thanks to someone who made your life better.

So thank you, Maj, once again, for saving the day way back in April 2009. And thank you Morgan for befriending me for the day and showing me what a slice of Roman life was like. And thank you Sue and Johanna for allowing me to share such a belissimo day in Rome with the two of you. And thank you Rome, for being the wonderful city that you are to allow all these special memories... and please let my wish be granted so that I may return to your winding streets and do it all over again.

Following the Steps of Princess Anna

While we waited to see if our wishes would come true, we did what all Romans do on a warm fall evening, and went in search of gelato. And if your near the Trevi Fountain, the only place to go is Giolitti, made famous by Audrey Hepburn in 'Roman Holiday'.

When I visited Rome in Spring 2009, my travel companion of the day, Maria, and I had also visited the famous gelateria; but my memory has it being NEXT to the Trevi Fountain, when in fact it is a good 4-6 blocks away. Needless to say, the act of finding this place took a bit of asking, hand gestures and picture drawings... but we did. And after a few minutes wait, we had three ice cream cones to show for it... nothing is better than Bacio and Pistacio gelato with fresh whip cream in Italy. And the act of being with friends to share this experience was the cherry on top.

Three Coins in a Fountain

After a magnificient dinner at il Chianti - my most favorite restaurant in Rome - we were out to do what all must do when in Rome. Toss two coins a piece in the Trevi Fountain.

Its never hard to find fountain Trevi. While small in size of the area it takes up, the splashing water and screams of people give it enough boisterousness to rival any waterpark. While no one is technically in the fountain, the number of people packed into this tight space would compete with attendance records at Blizzard Beach on any given night.

The myth behind Trevi, is that you are allowed two wishes on any given trip to Rome. But it will only come true if your first wish is to return to Rome. (quite a marketing stunt, eh?)

We all took our turns throwing our pennies into the fountain...

Who knows if our coins tossed will equal wishes granted. Should life ever call for another flight that lands in Fiumincino we will know, won't we?

The Spanish Steps are Calling

Maybe its part of my continued love affair with Spain, or maybe simply because its a beautiful landmark, but to me, when in Rome, there is no better place to watch nightfall than than from a perch on the Spanish Steps.

The three of us, in our flip-flop feet, walked briskly from Travestere to get to the steps at the ideal time to watch the skies go from blue, to pink, to red and then black, AFTER we picked up a bottle of Italian Soave (a unique white wine to Italy) to enjoy while we gathered with thousands who were all doing the same. What a beautiful ending to such a lovely day.